Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Mundus Muliebris by John Evelyn, c1690

Mundus Muliebris: or the ladies dressing-room unlock'd and her toilette spread by John Evelyn, c1690:

"A new Scene to us next presents,

The Dressing Room and Implements, 

Of Toilet Plate and Gilt, and Emboss'd,

And several other things of Cost,


The Table Miroir, one Glue Pot,

One for Pomatum, and whatnot?

Of Washes, Unguents and Cosmeticks,

A pair of Silver Candlesticks, 


Snuffers and Snuff Dish, Boxes more,

For Powders, Patches, Water Store,

In silver Flasks, Bottles or Cups, 

Cover'd or open to wash chaps."


John Evelyn’s Mundus Muliebris: or, The Ladies Dressing-Room Unlock’d and Her Toilette Spread (c.1690) offers a vivid, almost theatrical glimpse into the intimate ritual of feminine beauty in the late seventeenth century. His poem opens the door, quite literally, to a private world—one that few men of the period would have seen—and lays out before the reader an opulent tableau of refinement, vanity, and artifice. This “new scene,” as he calls it, is not merely a physical description of the dressing table, but a social commentary on luxury and the culture of adornment that defined the Restoration era’s fashionable elite.

Evelyn’s lines read like an inventory of the feminine art of self-presentation. The “Toilet Plate and Gilt, and Emboss’d” objects shimmer with wealth and craftsmanship, reflecting not just the lady’s face but her social standing. Every implement—each mirror, pot, and flask—has its role in the morning ceremony of transformation. The “Table Miroir,” centerpiece of the ritual, stands as both a literal and symbolic portal: it captures beauty in its fleeting moment, while also suggesting the constructed nature of that beauty. Around it, the “Glue Pot” and “Pomatum” jar remind us of the tactile, even alchemical, processes of personal enhancement. These were the materials of self-fashioning—creams, pomades, and unguents compounded of beeswax, spermaceti, oils, and fragrant essences—each prepared to smooth, scent, or tint the complexion according to the ideals of the age.

The mention of “Washes, Unguents and Cosmeticks” evokes not only the textures and fragrances of these potions but also their sensory richness: the faint coolness of rosewater, the soft sheen of pomade, the herbal sharpness of lavender or rosemary distillates. Evelyn’s description expands beyond utility into sensuality—beauty here is both a performance and an experience. Silver candlesticks and snuff dishes gleam in the candlelight, their reflection amplifying the luxurious intimacy of the scene. Even the “Powders, Patches, Water Store” are contained in ornate “silver Flasks, Bottles or Cups,” suggesting that the instruments of beauty were as decorative as the woman herself.

Yet beneath this charm lies a wry undertone. Evelyn, ever the moralist, cannot resist hinting at the excesses of vanity and artifice. The catalogue of objects—so sumptuous and exhaustive—implies a certain absurdity in the lengths to which beauty is pursued. Still, his fascination is undeniable. Through his eyes, we witness the birth of the modern toilette ritual—a fusion of art, luxury, and identity. In Mundus Muliebris, the dressing table becomes a microcosm of seventeenth-century society: gilded, perfumed, and deeply conscious of appearances.


"Vanitas vanitatum omnia vanitas”


The Latin phrase “Vanitas vanitatum, omnia vanitas” translates to “Vanity of vanities, all is vanity.”

It comes from the Book of Ecclesiastes in the Old Testament (Ecclesiastes 1:2) and was traditionally attributed to King Solomon. The phrase expresses the idea that all human pursuits—beauty, wealth, pleasure, power—are ultimately fleeting and meaningless when measured against the inevitability of death and the passage of time.

In the 17th century, particularly during the Baroque period, this phrase became the foundation of the “vanitas” art genre—paintings filled with symbolic objects like skulls, extinguished candles, wilting flowers, and hourglasses. These images reminded viewers that worldly possessions and physical beauty are temporary; only the soul and virtue endure.

In a broader cultural sense, “Vanitas vanitatum, omnia vanitas” reflects a philosophical meditation on mortality and the transience of human life. When applied to contexts like fashion, cosmetics, or perfume—as in John Evelyn’s Mundus Muliebris—it carries a tone of moral reflection: even the most exquisite luxuries and rituals of adornment, however beautiful, are ultimately ephemeral, mere illusions in the face of time’s decay.

In essence, the phrase is a timeless reminder that all earthly beauty fades, and that the pursuit of perfection or possession is a fleeting endeavor—both seductive and doomed to vanish.

The Language of Flowers

How beautiful and yet how cheap are flowers! Not exotics, but what are called common flowers. A rose, for instance, is among the most beautiful of the smiles of nature. The "laughing flowers," exclaims the poet. But there is more than gaiety in blooming flowers, though it takes a wise man to see the beauty, the love, and the adaptation of which they are full.

What should we think of one who had invented flowers, supposing that, before him, flowers were unknown? Would he not be regarded as the opener-up of a paradise of new delight? Should we not hail the inventor as a genius, as a god? And yet these lovely offsprings of the earth have been speaking to man from the first dawn of his existence until now, telling him of the goodness and wisdom of the Creative Power, which bid the earth bring forth, not only that which was useful as food, but also flowers, the bright consummate flowers to clothe it in beauty and joy!



FLOWERS.

"The meanest flower that blows, can give

Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears."


Bring one of the commonest field-flowers into a room, place it on a table, or chimney-piece, and you seem to have brought a ray of sunshine into the place. There is a cheerfulness about flowers. What a delight are they to the drooping invalid! They are a sweet enjoyment, coming as messengers from the country, and seeming to say, "Come and see the place where we grow, and let your heart be glad in our presence."


There is a sentiment attached to flowers, and this sentiment has been expressed in language by giving names to various flowers, shrubs and plants. These names constitute a language, which may be made the medium of pleasant and amusing interchange of thought between men and women. A bouquet of flowers and leaves may be selected and arranged so as to express much depth of feeling—to be truly a poem. We present herewith a list of many flowers and plants, to which, by universal consent, a sentiment has become attached.





A

Acacia—Concealed love.

Acacia, Rose—Friendship.

Acanthus—Arts.

Adonis Vernalis—Bitter memories.

Agnus Casus—Coldness.

Agrimony—Thankfulness.

Almond—Hope.

Aloe—Superstition.

Althea—Consumed by love.

Alyssum, Sweet—Worth beyond beauty.

Amaranth—Immortality.

Amaryllis—Splendid beauty.

Ambrosia—Love returned.

Anemone—Expectation.

Anemone, Garden—Forsaken.

Angelica—Inspiration.

Apocynum (Dogbane)—Inspiration.

Apple—Temptation.

Apple Blossom—Preference.

Arbor vitæ—Unchanging friendship.

Arbutus, Trailing—Welcome.

Arum—Ardor.

Ash—Grandeur.

Ash, Mountain—Prudence.

Aspen Tree—Lamentation.

Asphodel—Regrets beyond the grave.

Aurilica—Avarice.

Azalea—Romance.


B

Bachelor's Button—Hope in love.

Balm—Sympathy.

Balm of Gilead—Healing.

Balsam—Impatience.

Barberry—Sharpness, satire.

Basil—Hatred.

Bay Leaf—No change till death.

Beech—Prosperity.

Bee Ophrys—Error.

Bee Orchis—Industry.

Bell Flower—Gratitude.

Belvidere, Wild (Licorice)—I declare against you.

Bilberry—Treachery.

Birch Tree—Meekness.

Black Bryony—Be my support.

Bladder-Nut Tree—Frivolous amusements.

Blue Bottle—Delicacy.

Borage—Bluntness.

Box—Constancy.

Briers—Envy.

Broken Straw—Constancy.

Broom—Neatness.

Buckbean—Calm repose.

Bugloss—Falsehood.

Burdock—Importunity.

Buttercup—Riches.


C

Cactus—Thou leavest me.

Calla Lilly—Feminine beauty.

Calycanthus—Benevolence.

Camelia—Pity.

Camomile—Energy in action.

Candytuft—Indifference.

Canterbury Bell—Gratitude.

Cape Jasmine Gardenia—Transport, ecstasy.

Cardinal Flower—Distinction.

Carnation, Yellow—Disdain.

Catchfly (Silene), Red—Youthful love.

Catchfly, White—I fall a victim.

Cedar—I live for thee.

Cedar of Lebanon—Incorruptible.

Celandine—Future joy.

Cherry Tree—Good education.

Chickweed—I cling to thee.

Chickory—Frugality.

China Aster—I will think of thee.

China, Pink—Aversion.

Chrysanthemum, Rose—In love.

Chrysanthemum, White—Truth.

Chrysanthemum, Yellow—Slighted love.

Cinquefoil—Beloved child.

Clematis—Artifice.

Clover, Red—Industry.

Cobœa—Gossip.

Coxcomb—Foppery.

Colchium—My best days fled.

Coltsfoot—Justice shall be done you.

Columbine—Folly.

Columbine, Purple—Resolved to win.

Columbine, Red—Anxious.

Convolvulus Major—Dead hope.

Convolvulus Minor—Uncertainty.

Corchorus—Impatience of happiness.

Coreopsis—Love at first sight.

Coriander—Hidden merit.

Corn—Riches.

Cornelian Cherry Tree—Durability.

Coronilla—Success to you.

Cowslip—Pensiveness.

Cowslip, American—My divinity.

Crocus—Cheerfulness.

Crown Imperial—Majesty.

Currants—You please me.

Cypress—Mourning.

Cypress and Marigold—Despair.


D

Daffodil—Chivalry.

Dahlia—Forever thine.

Daisy, Garden—I share your feelings.

Daisy, Michaelmas—Farewell.

Daisy, Red—Beauty unknown to possessor.

Daisy, White—Innocence.

Daisy, Wild—I will think of it.

Dandelion—Coquetry.

Daphne Mezereon—I desire to please.

Daphne Odora—I would not have you otherwise.

Deadleaves—Sadness.

Diosma—Usefulness.

Dittany—Birth.

Dock—Patience.

Dodder—Meanness.

Dogwood Flowering (Cornus)—Am I indifferent to you?


E

Ebony—Hypocrisy.

Eglantine—I wound to heal.

Elder—Compassion.

Elm—Dignity.

Endine—Frugality.

Epigæa, Repens (Mayflower)—Budding beauty.

Eupatorium—Delay.

Evening Primrose—Inconstancy.

Evergreen—Poverty.

Everlasting (Graphalium)—Never ceasing memory.


F

Filbert—Reconciliation.

Fir Tree—Elevation.

Flax—I feel your kindness.

Flora's Bell—Without pretension.

Flowering Reed—Confide in heaven.

Forget-me-not—True love.

Foxglove—Insincerity.

Fraxinella—Fire.

Fritilaria (Guinea-hen Flower)—Persecution.

Furze—Anger.

Fuchsia—The ambition of my love thus plagues itself.

Fuchsia, Scarlet—Taste.


G

Gardenia—Transport; Ecstasy.

Gentian, Fringed—Intrinsic worth.

Geranium, Apple—Present preference.

Geranium, Ivy—Your hand for next dance.

Geranium, Nutmeg—I expect a meeting.

Geranium, Oak—Lady, deign to smile.

Geranium, Rose—Preference.

Geranium, Silver-leaf—Recall.

Gillyflower—Lasting beauty.

Gladiolus—Ready armed.

Golden Rod—Encouragement.

Gooseberry—Anticipation.

Goosefoot—Goodness.

Gorse—Endearing affection.

Grape—Charity.

Grass—Utility.

Guelder Rose (Snowball)—Winter.


H

Harebell—Grief.

Hawthorn—Hope.

Heart's Ease—Think of me.

Heart's Ease, Purple—You occupy my thoughts.

Hazel—Reconciliation.

Heath—Solitude.

Helenium—Tears.

Heliotrope, Peruvian—I love; devotion.

Hellebore—Scandal.

Henbane—Blemish.

Hepatica—Confidence.

Hibiscus—Delicate Beauty.

Holly—Foresight.

Hollyhock—Fruitfulness.

Hollyhock, White—Female ambition.

Honesty (Lunaria)—Sincerity.

Honeysuckle—The bond of love.

Honeysuckle, Coral—The color of my fate.

Honeysuckle, Monthly—I will not answer hastily.

Hop—Injustice.

Hornbeam—Ornament.

Horse-Chestnut—Luxury.

House-Leek—Domestic Economy.

Houstonia—Content.

Hoya (Wax Plant)—Sculpture.

Hyacinth—Jealousy.

Hyacinth, Blue—Constancy.

Hyacinth, Purple—Sorrow.

Hydrangea—Heartlessness.



I

Ice Plant—Your looks freeze me.

Indian Cress—Resignation.

Ipomaca—I attach myself to you.

Iris—Message.

Iris, German—Flame.

Ivy—Friendship; matrimony.


























J

Jessamine, Cape—Transient joy.

Jessamine, White—Amiability.

Jessamine, Yellow—Grace; elegance.

Jonquil—Return my affection.

Judas-Tree—Betrayed.

Juniper—Perfect Loveliness.


K

Kalmia (Mountain Laurel)—Treachery.

Kennedia—Intellectual beauty.


L

Laburnum—Pensive Beauty.

Lady's Slipper—Capricious beauty.

Lagerstroema (Cape Myrtle)—Eloquence.

Lantana—Rigor.

Larch—Boldness.

Larkspur—Fickleness.

Laurel—Glory.

Laurestinus—I die if neglected.

Lavender—Distrust.

Lemon Blossom—Discretion.

Lettuce—Cold-hearted.

Lilac—First emotion of love.

Lilac, White—Youth.

Lily—Purity; modesty.

Lily of the Valley—Return of happiness.

Lily, Day—Coquetry.

Lily, Water—Eloquence.

Lily, Yellow—Falsehood.

Linden Tree—Conjugal love.

Live Oak—Liberty.

Liverwort—Confidence.

Locust—Affection beyond the grave.

London Pride—Frivolity.

Lotus—Forgetful of the past.

Love in a Mist—You puzzle me.

Love Lies Bleeding—Hopeless, not heartless.

Lucerne—Life.

Lungwort (Pulmonaria)—Thou art my life.

Lupine—Imagination.

Lychnis—Religious Enthusiasm.

Lythrum—Pretension.


M

Madder—Calumny.

Maiden's Hair—Discretion.

Magnolia, Chinese—Love of Nature.

Magnolia, Grandiflora—Peerless and Proud.

Magnolia, Swamp—Perseverance.

Mallow—Sweetness.

Mandrake—Horror.

Maple—Reserve.

Marigold—Cruelty.

Marigold, African—Vulgar-minded.

Marigold, French—Jealousy.

Marjoram—Blushes.

Marshmallow—Beneficence.

Marvel of Peru (Four o'clock)—Timidity.

Meadow Saffron—My best days gone.

Meadow Sweet—Usefulness.

Mignonette—Your qualities surpass your charms.

Mimosa—Sensitiveness.

Mint—Virtue.

Mistletoe—I surmount all difficulties.

Mock Orange (Syringia)—Counterfeit.

Monkshood—A deadly foe is near.

Moonwort—Forgetfulness.

Morning Glory—Coquetry.

Moss—Maternal love.

Motherwort—Secret Love.

Mourning Bride (Scabious)—Unfortunate attachment.

Mouse-ear Chickweed—Simplicity.

Mulberry, Black—I will not survive you.

Mulberry, White—Wisdom.

Mullein—Good nature.

Mushroom—Suspicion.

Mush Plant—Weakness.

Mustard Seed—Indifference.

Myosotis—Forget me not.

Myrtle—Love.


N

Narcissus—Egotism.

Nasturtium—Patriotism.

Nettle—Cruelty; Slander.

Night Blooming Cereus—Transient beauty.

Nightshade—Bitter truth.


O

Oak—Hospitality.

Oats—Music.

Oleander—Beware.

Orange—Generosity.

Orange Flower—Chastity.

Orchis—Beauty.

Osier—Frankness.

Osmunda—Dreams.


P

Pansy—Think of me.

Parsley—Entertainment.

Pasque Flower—Unpretentious.

Passion Flower—Religious Fervor.

Pea—Appointed meeting.

Pea, Everlasting—Wilt go with me?

Pea, Sweet—Departure.

Peach Blossom—My heart is thine.

Pear Tree—Affection.

Peony—Anger.

Pennyroyal—Flee away.

Periwinkle—Sweet memories.

Persimmon—Bury me amid nature's beauties.

Petunica—Am not proud.

Pheasant's Eye—Sorrowful memories.

Phlox—Our souls united.

Pimpernel—Change.

Pine—Time.

Pine Apple—You are perfect.

Pine, Spruce—Farewell.

Pink—Pure affection.

Pink, Clove—Dignity.

Pink, Double-red—Pure, ardent love.

Pink, Indian—Aversion.

Pink, Mountain—You are aspiring.

Pink, Variegated—Refusal.

Pink, White—You are fair.

Pink, Yellow—Disdain.

Plane Tree—Genius.

Pleurisy Root (Asclopias)—Heartache cure.

Plum Tree—Keep promise.

Plum Tree, Wild—Independence.

Polyanthus—Confidence.

Poplar, Black—Courage.

Poplar, White—Time.

Poppy—Consolation.

Poppy, White—Sleep of the heart.

Pomegranate—Foolishness.

Pomegranate Flower—Elegance.

Potato—Beneficence.

Pride of China (Melia)—Dissension.

Primrose—Early youth.

Primrose, Evening—Inconstancy.

Privet—Mildness.

Pumpkin—Coarseness.


Q

Quince—Temptation.


R

Ragged-robin (Lychnis)—Wit.

Ranunculus—Radiant with charms.

Reeds—Music.

Rhododendron—Agitation.

Rose—Beauty.

Rose, Austrian—Thou art all that is lovely.

Rose, Bridal—Happy love.

Rose, Burgundy—Unconscious beauty.

Rose, Cabbage—Love's Ambassador.

Rose, Campion—Only deserve my love.

Rose, Carolina—Love is dangerous.

Rose, China—Grace.

Rose, Daily—That smile I would aspire to.

Rose, Damask—Freshness.

Rose, Dog—Pleasure and pain.

Rose, Hundred Leaf—Pride.

Rose, Inermis—Ingratitude.

Rose, Maiden's Blush—If you do love me you will find me out.

Rose, Moss—Superior merit.

Rosebud, Moss—Confessed love.

Rose, Multiflora—Grace.

Rose, Musk-cluster—Charming.

Rose, Sweetbriar—Sympathy.

Rose, Tea—Always lovely.

Rose, Unique—Call me not beautiful.

Rose, White—I am worthy of you.

Rose, White (withered)—Transient impression.

Rose, Wild—Simplicity.

Rose, Yellow—Decrease of love.

Rose, York and Lancaster—War.

Roses, Garland of—Reward of Virtue.

Rosebud—Young girl.

Rosebud, White—The heart that knows not love.

Rosemary—Your presence revives me.

Rue—Disdain.

Rush—Docility.


S

Saffron—Excess is dangerous.

Sage—Esteem.

Sardonia—Irony.

Satin-flower (Lunaria)—Sincerity.

Scabious, Mourning Bride—Widowhood.

Sensitive Plant—Timidity.

Service Tree—Prudence.

Snapdragon—Presumption.

Snowball—Thoughts of heaven.

Snowdrop—Consolation.

Sorrel—Wit ill-timed.

Southernwood—Jesting.

Spearmint—Warm feelings.

Speedwell, Veronica—Female fidelity.

Spindle-tree—Your image is engraven on my heart.

Star of Bethlehem—Reconciliation.

Starwort, American—Welcome to a stranger.

St. John's Wort (Hypericum)—Superstition.

Stock, Ten-week—Promptitude.

Stramonium, Common—Disguise.

Strawberry—Perfect excellence.

Strawberry Tree (Arbutus)—Esteemed love.

Sumac—Splendor.

Sunflower, Dwarf—Your devout admirer.

Sunflower, Fall—Pride.

Sweet Sultan—Felicity.

Sweet William—Artifice.

Sycamore—Curiosity.

Syringia—Memory.


T

Tansy—I declare against you.

Teasel—Misanthropy.

Thistle—Austerity.

Thorn Apple—Deceitful charms.

Thorn, Black—Difficulty.

Thorns—Severity.

Thrift—Sympathy.

Throatwood (Pulmonaria)—Neglected beauty.

Thyme—Activity.

Tiger Flower—May pride befriend thee.

Touch me not, Balsam—Impatience.

Truffle—Surprise.

Trumpet Flower—Separation.

Tuberose—Dangerous pleasures.

Tulip—Declaration of love.

Tulip Tree—Rural happiness.

Tulip, Variegated—Beautiful eyes.

Tulip, Yellow—Hopeless love.

Turnip—Charity.


V

Valerian—Accommodating disposition.

Venus's Flytrap—Caught at last.

Venus's Looking-glass—Flattery.

Verbena—Sensibility.

Vine—Intoxicating.

Violet, Blue—Love.

Violet, White—Modesty.

Violet, Yellow—Modest worth.

Virgin's Bower—Filial love.


W

Wall Flower—Fidelity.

Walnut—Stratagem.

Weeping Willow—Forsaken.

Wheat—Prosperity.

Woodbine—Fraternal love.

Wood Sorrel—Joy.

Wormwood—Absence.


Y

Yarrow—Cure for heartache.

Yew—Sorrow.


Z

Zennæ—Absent friends.



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