- Top notes: Italian neroli oil, Tunisian orange blossom, Jordanian almond, Moroccan cassie, amyl salicylate, isobutyl phenylacetate, linalool, Algerian jonquil, hyacinthine, clary sage
- Middle notes: French carnation, Zanzibar cloves, Ceylon cinnamon, caryophyllene, isoeugenol, Grasse rose oil, geranyl formate, Grasse jasmine, Manila ylang ylang, Florentine orris, ionone
- Base notes: heliotropin, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, benzyl acetate, terpineol, Hungarian clary sage oil, Tibetan musk, musk ambrette, ambergris, benzoin
The natural product is very seldom used as it is expensive and unsatisfactory. The synthetic carnation is known as œillet dianthus dianthine etc. The main constituents of this perfume are rose, isoeugenol, linalool, ionone, neroli, vanillin, heliotropine and benzyl acetate. A typical formula made from basic ingredients would be as follows:
- Natural oil of rose 10 parts
- Isoeugenol 50 per cent 15 parts
- phenylacetaldehyde 10 parts
- Linalool 10 parts
- Ionone pure 10 parts
- Benzyl acetate 10 parts
- Neroline 5 parts
- Heliotropine 10 parts
- Vanillin 10 parts
- Benzyl acetate 10 parts
To make 100 parts
Top notes: Italian neroli oil, nerol, orange blossom, iso eugenol, phenylacetaldehyde, almond, cassie, amyl salicylate, isobutyl phenylacetate, linalool, jonquil, hyacinthine
Middle notes: French carnation, cloves, Ceylon cinnamon, caryophyllene, benzyl isoeugenol, linalool, natural Grasse rose oil, geranyl formate, jasmine, ylang ylang, orris, ionone
Base notes: heliotropin, vanilla, vanillin, tonka bean, coumarin, benzyl acetate, terpineol, clary sage oil, ethyl benzoate, musk, ambergris
Clove Pink
- Hyacinthine 5 minims
- Essence of rose 2 fl ounces
- Otto of rose 3 minims
- Cumarin 10 grains
- Essential oil of almond 5 minims
- Heliotropin 10 grains
- Caryophyllin 60 minims
- Oil of cloves 4 minims
- Essence of jasmine 15 fl ounces
- Essence of jonquille 2 fl ounces
- Oil of orris 2 minims
- Glycerin 4 drams
- Terpineol 5 minims
- Rectified spirit enough to make 25 fl ounces
Mix
ALASKA PINK
- Extract rose oz 12
- Extract orange flower OZ 6
- Extract cassie OZ 6
- Tincture vanilla OZ 3
- Spirit cloves OZ 2
- Spirit Ceylon cinnamon OZ 1
- Spirit ylang ylang OZ 1
- Tincture ambergris dr 4
- Tincture musk dr 4
Carnation:
- Iso eugenol 500 cc
- Terpineol 200 cc
- Coumarin 50 grams
- Iso butyl phenylacetate 40 cc
- Clary sage oil 10 cc
- Neroli oil 100 cc
- Benzyl iso eugenol 100 grams
Carnation: amyl salicylate, geranyl formate, terpinyl acetate, ethyl benzoate
- Top notes: neroli oil, iso eugenol, iso butyl phenylacetate, amyl salicylate,
- Middle notes: carnation, benzyl isoeugenol, geranyl formate
- Base notes: coumarin, terpineol, clary sage oil, ethyl benzoate
Carnation natural occurs as pomade or occasionally concretes but these are scarce and high priced. The odour base is isoeugenol modified by eugenol, esters of eugenol, and also nerol, heliotropin, terpineol, and hydroxycitronellal with the flowery note brought out by ylang ylang oil.
Carnation Extract #1:
- Vanillin Tincture 2 oz
- Cassie 4 oz
- Orange Flower 4 oz
- Rose 6 oz
Extrait Artificiel d'Oeillet (Imitation Carnation Extract) #2:
- 28 centiliters rose spirits
- 14 cubic centiliters orange blossom spirits
- 14 cubic centiliters acacia spirits
- 36 grams vanilla spirits
- 10 drops clove oil
Imitation Carnation Extract #3:
- 171 centiliters tuberose extract
- 143 centiliters jonquil extract
- 14 centiliters styrax extract
- 14 centiliters tolu extract
Clove Pink:
- Tincture of jasmine 16 ounces
- Tincture of orris 16 ounces
- Tincture of musc baur 8 ounces
- Tincture of benzoin 1 dram
- Oil of rose geranium 1 dram
- Oil of cloves 1/2 dram
- Oil of neroli Portugal 1 dram
- Oil of pimento 10 drops
- Oil of patchouli 10 drops
- Oil of sandalwood 1 dram
- Cologne spirits, (188%) 10 ounces
- Orange flower water 2 ounces
Mix and filter.
Imitation Essence of Clove Pink
- 1/2 pint Esprit de rose
- 1/4 pint esprit de fleur d'orange
- 1/4 pint esprit de cassie
- 2 oz Esprit de vanilla
- 10 drops Oil of cloves
It is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles the odor of the flower, and the public never doubt its being the "real thing."
Persian Pink:
- Tincture of orange flowers 4 ounces
- Tincture of rose 8 ounces
- Tincture of cassie 4 ounces
- Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces
- Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 2 ounces
- Oil of cloves 10 drops
- Oil of sandalwood 5 drops
Mix and filter if necessary.
Pinks:
- Tincture of rose 10 ounces
- Tincture of orange flowers 6 ounces
- Tincture of cassie 4 ounces
- Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces
- Tincture of ambergris 1 dram
- Oil of cloves 5 drops
Mix and filter if necessary.
Extrait d'Oeillet:
- 1 pint extract of rose
- 1 pint extract of cassie
- 1/2 pint tincture of ambrette
- 1/4 pint tincture of orris
- 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
- 2 dram oil of cloves
- 1 dram coil of cinnamon (true)
- 1 dram oil of petit grain
- 1/2 pint alcohol
- 1/2 pint orange flower water, triple
Sweet Pink:
- Tincture of rose 16 ounces
- Tincture of orange flowers 8 ounces
- Tincture of cassie 8 ounces
- Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces
- Tincture of civet 1/2 ounce
- Oil of cloves 10 drops
Mix and filter if necessary.
Clove Pink:
- Oil of cloves 10 drops
- Tincture of orris 10 ounces
- Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces
- Tincture of ambrette 2 ounces
- Cologne spirits (188%) 6 ounces
- Orange flower water 5 ounces
- Rose water 9 ounces
Dissolve the oil in the tinctures and cologne spirits add the waters slowly and filter through taleum at At low temperature.
Gillyflower:
- 1200,0 Essence of neroli
- 1200,0 Essence of rose
- 600,0 Essence of vanilla
- 25 drops bitter almond oil
- 600,0 Essence of violet root
- 600,0 Essence of acacia
Infuse for 14 days.
Clove Pink Bouquet (Saunder's)
- 12 oz jasmine extract
- 12 oz orris extract
- 8 oz musk extrect
- 1 dra rose otto
- 2 dr clove otto
- 1 dr neroli otto
- 10min pimento otto
- 20 min patchouli otto
- 2 dr sandalwood otto
- 4 pts benzoic acid
CARNATION PINK
- Oil of cloves
- Cassie extrait
- Jasmine extrait
- Orange flower extrait
- Rose extrait
- Essence of civet
- Essence of vanilla
- Tincture of storax
- Spirit of ylang ylang
ESSENCE OF CLOVE PINK
- Rose extrait
- Orange flower extrait
- Essence of vanilla
- Oil of cloves
Mix and after standing for several days filter
Carnation Pink:
- Oil of cloves 5 minims
- essence of cassie 4 oz
- essence of jasmine 2 oz
- essence of orange flowers 4 oz
- essence of rose 8 oz
- tincture of vanilla 2 oz
- tincture of storax 1 oz
Clove Pink #1:
- Extract of jasmine 12 oz
- extract of orris 12 oz
- extract of musk 8 oz
- otto of rose virgin 1 dr
- otto of cloves 2 dr
- otto of neroli super 1 dr
- otto of pimento 10 minims
- otto of patchouly 20 minims
- otto of santal flav 2 dr
- benzoic acid 1 dr
- pure spirit sufficient to make 4 pt
Sweet Pink:
- Oil of ylang ylang 1 dr
- oil of bergamot 2 dr
- extract of benzoin 2 dr
- civet 2 dr
- extract of rose from pomade 8 oz
- alcohol 1.5 qt
CLOVE PINK (PIESSE)
- Esprit rose half pint
- orange flower 1/4 pint
- cassie 1/4 pint
- essence vanilla 2 oz
- oil cloves 10 drops
CARNATION 1870
- Extraits rose 463
- orange 100
- jasmin 300
- cassie 100
- infusions musk 10
- ambergris 10 oils
- clove 10
- rose femelle 2
- bergamot 3
- neroli 13
- otto of rose 1
Modern CARNATION PINK:
- Extraits rose 320
- cassie 160
- orange 160
- jasmin 80
- essence vanilla 80
- infusions civet 80
- styrax 40
- iso eugenol 2
- oil ylang 2
- oil cloves 1
- otto rose 1
- bergamot oil 1
- citronellol 1
- hydroxycitronellal 1
- benezoylisoeugenol 0.25
- coumarin 0.25
- alcohol 70.5 2
CLOVE PINK:
- Extraits rose 375
- orange 135
- jasmin 100
- cassie 60
- tuberose 12.5
- essence vanilla 110
- infusions orris 186
- musk 13
- isoeugenol 2.5
- clove oil 1.5
- otto rose 2.5
- ylang oil 0.75
- geranium oil Bourbon 0.5
- oil coriander 0.25
- phenylacetic aldehyde 0.25
- bergamot oil 0.25
EXTRAIT OEILLET BLANC:
- Extraits rose 225
- cassie 125
- orange 125
- essence vanilla 60
- infusion ambergris 5
- clove oil 2
- iso eugenol 10
- otto rose 1
- neroli oil Bigarad 0.25
- alcohol 446.75
EXTRAIT OEILLET ROUGE:
- Extraits rose 400
- orange 150
- cassie 120
- jasmin 85
- tuberose 20
- essence vanilla 200
- infusions musk 10
- orris 5
- isoeugenol 3
- clove oil 3
- ionone 1.5
- ylang oil 0.5
- citronellal 1
- rose femelle oil 0.5
- geranyl acetate 0.5 5
CARNATION:
- Extraits jasmin 590
- rose 250
- orange 50
- cassie 50
- infusions benzoin 15
- musk 15
- amber gris 5
- isoeugenol 13.5
- clove oil 5
- bergamot oil 1.5
- rose femelle oil 1
- otto rose 1
- benzoyl iso eugenol 1
- heliotropin 1
- neroli oil 0.5
- ylang oil 0.5
MALMAISON BOUQUET:
- Extraits jasmin 405
- rose 270
- orange 135
- cassie 135
- infusions benzoin 26
- musk 12.5
- isoeugenol 15
- vanillin 1.5 7
OEILLET DU ROI:
- Extraits rose 328
- cassie 250
- orange 250
- essence vanilla 120
- isoeugenol 25
- eugenol 12.5
- amyl salicyl 5
- geraniol 2.5
- phenylethyl alcohol 1.25
- cardamom oil 1
- clove oil 1
- ylang oil 2
- phenylacetic aldehyde 1
- otto rose 0.75
OEILLET DE PROVENCE:
- Orris in fusion 200
- isoeugenol 25
- infusions musk 25
- vanilla 25
- benzoin 22
- ionone 5
- amyl salicyl 5
- phenylacetic aldehyde 5
- liquid absolutes of carnation 2
- rose 1
- orange 1
- jasmin 1
- cardamom oil 1
- ylang oil 1
- otto rose 1
- alcohol 680
GARDEN CLOVE OR GILLY FLOWERS:
- Extraits rose 360
- jasmin 200
- orange 120
- cassie 120
- tuberose 15
- infusions orris 100
- vanilla 60
- musk 10
- ambergris 5
- clove oil 5
- bergamot oil 2
- otto rose 1.5
- oil rose femelle 1
- neroli oil 0.5
Synthetic Carnation #1:
- Isoeugenol 862.5
- citronellol 48.5
- phenylethyl alcohol 32
- hydroxycitronellal 16
- palmarosa oil 12
- geranyl acetate 6
- phenylacetic aldehyde 4.5
- cinnamic alcohol 3
- ylang oil 3
- benzylacetate 3
- amyl salicyl 3
- vanillin 3
- musk ketone 2
- otto rose 1.5
Synthetic Carnation #2:
- Isoeugenol 440
- otto rose 80
- hydroxycitronellal 80
- benzoyl isoeugenol 70
- citronellol 70
- bergamot oil 70
- carnation liquid absolute 60
- clove oil 35
- heliotropin 30
- isobutyl phenyl acetate 20
- coumarin 15
- terpineol 10
- neroli oil 10
- ylang oil 10
Synthetic Carnation #3:
- Isoeugenol 470
- eugenol 90
- hexylmethyl ketone 60
- carnation liquid absolute 50
- methyl iso eugenol 45
- otto rose 45
- amyl salicyl 45
- nerol 35
- heliotropin 35
- amyl phenyl acetate 25
- ylang oil 20
- methyl eugenol 20
- hydroxycitronellal 15
- terpineol 15
- phenylacetic aldehyde 5
- benzoyl iso eugenol 25
PINK BLOSSOM:
- Isoeugenol 400
- ionone 200
- cananga oil 100
- terpineol 100
- bromstyrol 80
- methyl isoeugenol 40
- geranium oil 40
- benzoyl isoeugenol 20
- guaiac wood oil 20
CARNATION
- Heliotropin 25 and musk ambrette 25 are dissolved in 200 terpineol with gentle warmth
- 20 benzoyl isoeugenol added
- isoeugenol 220
- geranium oil 120
- amyl salicyl 100
- rose femelle oil 75
- clove oil 50
- cananga oil 50
- petitgrain oil 40
- bromstyrol 25
- peru balsam 50
GARDEN CLOVE or GILLY FLOWERS:
- Clove oil 250
- isoeugenol 200
- geraniol 155
- cananga oil 50
- phenylethyl alcohol 50
- amyl salicyl 45
- oil rose femelle 40
- heliotropin 30
- musk ambrette 25
- bromstyrol 25
- benzyl acetate 25
- vetiver oil 25
- eugenol 15
- cinnamic alcohol 15
- peru balsam 50
MALMAISON:
- Isoeugenol 440
- eugenol 150
- citronellol 75
- geranium oil 70
- bergamot oil 70
- hydroxycitronellal 70
- clove oil 35
- benzoyl isoeugenol 20
- coumarin 20
- heliotropin 15
- palmarosa oil 15
- musk ambrette 10
- amyl salicyl 10
OEILLET DU ROI:
- Isoeugenol 450
- eugenol 400
- vanillin 10
- heliotropin 40
- amyl salicyl 50
- geraniol 25
- phenylethyl alcohol 15
- guaiac wood oil 15
- cananga oil 15
- phenylacetic aldehyde 15
- benzoyl isoeugenol 15
OEILLET DE PROVENCE:
- Isoeugenol 675
- eugenol 150
- palmarosa oil 40
- heliotropin 25
- vanillin 5
- geranyl acetate 20
- phenylacetic aldehyde 20
- ylang oil 10
- cinnamic alcohol 10
- benzylacetate 10
- amyl salicyl 10
- geranium oil 10
- musk ambrette 10
- benzoyl isoeugenol 5
The perfumes may be varied with a mixture of equal parts clove oil, palmarosa oil, hydroxy citronellal residues and terpineol, or the latter with some artificial cinnamic aldehyde is useful for cheapening.
