Various ORCHID Formulas

Top notes: bergamot, neroli,  phenylacetic acid, wallflower, anisic aldehyde, amyl salicylate, isobutyl salicylate, linalool

Middle notes: hydroxycitronellol, jasmine, rose, rose femelle oil, geraniol, violet, ionone, orris, Manila ylang ylang, tuberose, terpineol

Base notes: rhodinol, oakmoss, Peru balsam, benzoin, benzaldehyde, vanilla, vanillin, tonka bean, coumarin, ambergris, musk ambrette, musk, civet

• Infusion of violet 1 liter and 225 сс
• Infusion of jasmine 3 liters and 675cc 
• Vanillin 3 grams
• Infusion of ambrette 300 grams
• Infusion of musk 20 grams
• Infusion of civet 50 grams
• Solution of orris (1 in 1000) 1 liter and 225 cc
• Essence of Manilla ylang ylang 25 grams 
• Cheiranthia, proprietary wallflower odour 20 grams 
• Quarantine, proprietary wallflower-stock odour 30 grams 
• Anisic aldehyde 10 grams 
• Clover, artificial  10 grams 

Amyl salicylate may be added to taste  

Orchid:

• Extraits rose 391 
• violet 256 
• jasmin 220 
• tuberose 100 
• infusions benzoin 15 
• musk 5 
• terpineol 7 
• rose femelle oil 2 
• coumarin 1 
• bergamot oil 1 
• ylang oil Manila 1.75 
• neroli oil 0.25 

Orchid #2: 

• Extraits jasmin 500 
• violet 250 
• rose 202.5 
• ylang oil manila 5 
• phenylacetic aldehyde 1 
• neroli oil Bigarade 1 
• infusions civet 5 
• musk 2.5 
• ambergris 5 
• vanilla 15 
• tonquin 10 
• essential oil of almonds 0.5 
• amyl salicylate 2.5 

Orchid #3:

• Extraits jasmin 600 
• violet 200 
• infusions orris 70 
• vanilla 50 
• ambrette 50 
• civette 10 
• musk 5 
• ylang oil Manila 5 
• amyl salicyl 5 
• anisic aldehyde 2.5 
• isobutyl salicylate 2.5 

Orchid #4:

• ylang oil 5 
• amyl salicyl 5 
• infusions musk 5 
• civet 5 
• ambergris 5 
• anisic aldehyde 2 
• phenylacetic aldehyde 1 
• vanillin 1 
• neroli oil 1 
• ionone 0.5 
• essential oil almond 0.5 
• jasmin synthetic 0.5 
• otto rose 0.5 
• coumarin 0.25
• alcohol 967.75 

Orchid #5: 

• Amyl salicyl 250 
• isobutyl salicyl 200 
• linalool 100 
• geraniol 75 
• phenylethyl alcohol 62.5 
• rhodinol 50 
• ionone 50 
• ylang oil Manila 42.5 
• nerol 37.5 
• hydroxycitronellal 25 
• phenylacetic aldehyde 25 
• vanillin 12.5 
• coumarin 125 
• musk ambrette 7.5 
• benzoin resinoid 50 

Orchid #6:

• amyl salicylate 250 
• ylang oil 250 
• linalool 60 
• rhodinol 60 
• neroli oil 60 
• rose otto 60 
• jasmin synthetic 50 
• nerol 45 
• hydroxy citronellal 30 
• ionone 25 
• phenylacetic aldehyde 12.5 
• vanillin 12.5 
• coumarin 12.5 
• musk ambrette 6.25 
• linalylacetate 5 
• benzaldehyde 1.25 
• oakmoss resin 10 
• benzoin resinoid 50 

Various MYRTLE Formulas

Imitation Essence of Myrtle 

• Extract of vanilla 0.5 pt 
• extract of roses 1 pt 
• extract of fleur d orange 1.5 pt 
• extract of tuberose 1.5 pt 
• extract of jasmine 2 oz 

Myrtle:

• Extraits rose one pint 
• violet one pint 
• tuberose one pint 
• essence vanilla 1/4 pint 
• extract tolu 1/4 pint 
• neroli oil 10 drops 
• essential oil of almond 5 drops 

Myrtle #2: 

Extraits jasmin 1.5 

orange 1.5 

lily 1 

heliotrope 1 

Myrtle #3: 

• Extraits jasmin 350 
• orange 220 
• tuberose 130 
• rose 100 
• violet 25 
• infusions orris 119.75 
• vanilla 20 
• benzoin 10 
• myrrh 10 
• musk 10 
• civet 5
• essential oil of almond 0.25 

Myrtle #4: 

• Extraits jasmin 430 
• orange 285 
• rose 95 
• tuberose 95 
• infusions orris 60 
• musk 20 
• civet 5 
• vanilla 10 

Myrtle #5: 

• extraits jasmin 550 
• tuberose 250 
• violet 50 
• rose femelle oil 40 
• tonquin tincture 25 
• heliotropin 15 
• neroli oil 8 
• narcissus liquid absolute 6 
• tincture myrrh 5 
• tincture ambergris 5 
• otto of rose 5 
• sweet orange oil 3 
• isobutyl benzoate 2.5 
• isoeugenol 1 
• aubepin 1 
• ylang oil 1 
• bergamot oil 1 
• sandalwood oil 1 
• essential oil almond 0.5 
• styrax infusion 30 

Myrtle #6: 

• Extraits violet 240 
• tuberose 240 
• orange 240 
• rose 228.75 
• infusions vanilla 1.25 
• styrax 15 
• musk 12.5 
• neroli oil 2.5
• chevrefeuille 20 

Various WISTARIA or WISTERIA Formulas

Wisteria #1: 

• Extraits rose 400 
• jasmin 280 
• cassie 110 
• orange 80 
• violet 40 
• tuberose 20 
• bergamot oil 15
• terpineol 10 
• infusions musk 20 
• vanilla 10 
• benzoin 10 
• otto rose 3 
• methyl anthranilate 2 

Wisteria #2:

• Extraits rose 370 
• jasmin 270 
• cassie 100 
• orange 80 
• violet 40 
• tuberose 20 
• rose femelle oil 15 
• bergamot oil 15 
• terpineol 22.5 
• infusions musk 20 
• vanilla 10 
• tonka 10 
• phenylethyl phenylacetate 7.5 
• geranium oil 5 
• coumarin 5 
• otto rose 3 
• phenylpropyl alcohol 2.5 
• phenylethyl alcohol 2.5 
• methyl anthranilate 2 

Wisteria #3: 

• Extraits rose 350 
• tuberose 160 
• jonquille 160 
• jasmin 160 
• cassie 100 
• infusions musk 20 
• benzoin 10 
• peru 5 
• bergamot oil 10 
• rose femelle oil 10 
• terpineol 5 
• rose otto 2 
• phenylpropyl alcohol 1 
• methylacetophenone 1 
• methyl anthranilate phenylethyl phenylacetate 5

Wisteria #4:

• Vanillin 2 
• coumarin 10 
• musk ambrette 7.5 are dissolved in terpineol 250 with gentle warmth add 
• benzoin resinoid 50 
• orris concrete 5 
• rose absolute 32.5 
• tuberose absolute 17.5 
• jonquille absolute 12.5 
• and peru balsam 12.5 
• shaking well to solubility then add:
• rose femelle oil 140 
• linalool 137.5 
• hydroxy citronellal 100 
• phenylethyl phenylacetate 87.5 
• geranium oil 25 
• phenylpropyl alcohol 25 
• cinnamic alcohol 20 
• ionone alpha 16.25 
• styrolyl acetate 12.5 
• phenyl ethyl alcohol 12.5 
• benzyl propionate 12.5 
• methyl acetophenone 10 and decylic aldehyde 1.75 

Wisteria #5: 

• Musk ambrette 20 
• vanillin 5 are dissolved in terpineol 187.5 add: 
• orris concrete 40 
• benzoin resinoid 75 
• rose otto 40 shaking to solution: 
• linalool 187.5 
• hydroxycitronellal 150 
• bergamot oil 125 
• cinnamic alcohol 60 
• ylang oil 50 
• neroli oil 40 
• ionone alpha 17.5 and decylic aldehyde 2.5 

Wisteria #6:

• Vanillin 5 
• coumarin 10 are dissolved in terpineol 150 and add: 
• methyl anthranilate 10 
• rose otto 125 
• absolutes cassie 50 
• tuberose 16.5 
• jonquil 16.5 
• benzoin resinoid 50 
• peru balsam 16.5 
• rose femelle oil 186 
• phenylethyl phenylacetate 116 
• jasmin syn thetic extra 100 
• bergamot oil 50 
• geranium oil 30 
• phenylpropyl alcohol 30 
• methyl acetophenone 13.5 
• phenylethyl alcohol 16.5 
• neroli oil 8.5 

HAWTHORN

 Hawthorn: benzyl acetate, rhodinyl butyrate, phenyl ethyl acetate, benzoin, storax, lily base, bois de rose oil, vetiver oil 

Hawthorn #1:

• Extraits rose 10 ounces
• jasmin 10 ounces
• orange 10 ounces
• cassie 10 ounces
• essence vanilla 20 ounces
• essential oil almond half dram.

Hawthorn #2: 

• Extraits tuberose 320 
• jasmin 323 
• orange 185 
• cassie 75 
• jonquille 30 
• otto rose Bulgarian 5 
• anisic aldehyde 10 
• heliotropin 5 
• neroli oil bigarade 1 
• essential oil almonds 1 
• in fusions civette 20 
• musk 10 
• ambergris 5 
• benzoin 10 

Hawthorn #3:

• Otto rose Bulgarian 10 
• anisic aldehyde 30 
• orris concrete 1 
• musk ketone 2.5 
• heliotropin 5 
• ylang oil Manila 1 
• essential oil almond 0.25 
• liquid absolutes of orange flower 2 
• jasmin 4 
• violet 1.5 
• infusions vanilla 25 
• musk 20 
• tonquin 25
• alcohol 872.75 

Hawthorn #4: also known as May blossom: 

• Anisic aldehyde 465 
• geraniol 122 
• otto rose 100 
• jasmin absolute 70 
• orange flower absolute 50 
• cassie absolute 25 
• heliotropin 20 
• coumarin 20 
• vanillin 5 
• musk ketone 5 just liquefied by gentle warmth with terpineol 20
• petitgrain oil terpeneless 20 
• acetophenone 15 
• orris liquid 10 
• alcohol nonyl 2.5 
• benzaldehyde 0.5
• benzoin resinoid 50 

Hawthorn #5: 

• Anisic aldehyde 435 
• geraniol 195 
• otto rose 130 
• jasmin absolute 95 
• orange flower absolute 50 
• cassie absolute 25 
• benzaldehyde 1 
• add heliotropin 10 
• coumarin 14 
• vanillin 5 
• musk ketone 5 dissolved in terpineol 35 

HONEYSUCKLE

• Top notes: neroli, sweet orange oil, cyclamen, benzaldehyde, jonquil, para cresyl phenylacetate  
• Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, carnation, ylang ylang, heliotropin, anisic aldehyde, ionone, linalyl acetate, rose, geranyl formate, methyl anthranilate 
• Base notes: orris, benzoin, vanillin, tonka bean, coumarin, ambergris, sandalwood, benzyl benzoate, castoreum, myrrh, tolu balsam, olibanum, Peru balsam

Top Notes (bright, initial impression):

• Neroli (dominant) – provides a fresh, green-citrus floral tone
• Sweet Orange oil – adds a bright, juicy freshness
• Cyclamen – contributes a soft, velvety, natural floral lift

Middle Notes (heart, floral character):

• Jasmine – both natural extract and light synthetic Jasmine to enhance stability and brightness
• Tuberose – adds creamy, rich floral undertones
• Gardenia – soft, lush floral presence
• Carnation (Oeillet) – mellowness and nutty warmth, without spiciness
• Ylang Ylang – subtle, sweet, exotic floral nuance
• Heliotropine – almond-like, slightly powdery floral
• Anisic Aldehyde – light, sweet almond undertone
• Ionone – violet-like, enhances floral depth
• Linalyl Acetate – verdant, slightly green floral lift

Base Notes (fixatives, depth, lingering scent):

• Tonka Bean – smooth, sweet binder
• Styrax – warm, balsamic fixative
• Ambergris – refines and adds sensuality
• Sandalwood – soft, creamy woody undertone
• Benzyl Benzoate (optional for alcohol-free version) – diluent and fixative

Top notes:

Middle notes;

Base notes:

Honeysuckle: para cresyl phenylacetate, methyl methyl anthranilate 

• Methyl anthranilate 1.25 drs 
• Benzaldehyde 1.25 drs 
• Geranyl formate 2.5 drs 
• Vanillin tincture 2.5 drs  
• Castor tincture 3.5 drs  
• Orris oil concrete 5 drs
• Benzoin tincture 2 oz 
• Rose 6 oz
• Jonquil 7 oz  

 

Honeysuckle:

• patchouly extract 3 dr 
• benzoin tincture 12 oz 
• rose essence 1 2 oz 
• clove spirit 1 2 oz 
• civet tincture 1 oz 
• orange flower spirit 1 oz 
• jasmine essence 4 oz 
• vanilla tine ture 1 oz 

Honeysuckle:

• Extraits rose one pint 
• violet one pint 
• tuberose one pint 
• essence vanilla 1/4 pint 
• extract tolu 1/4 pint 
• neroli oil 10 drops 
• essential oil of almond 5 drops 

Honeysuckle #2:

• Extraits jasmin 1.5 
• orange 1.5 
• lily 1 
• heliotrope 1 

Honeysuckle #3 

• Extraits jasmin 350 
• orange 220 
• tuberose 130 
• rose 100 
• violet 25 
• infusions orris 119.75 
• vanilla 20 
• benzoin 10 
• myrrh 10 
• musk 10 
• civet 5
• essential oil of almond 0.25 

Honeysuckle #4 

• Extraits jasmin 430 
• orange 285 
• rose 95 
• tuberose 95 
• infusions orris 60 
• musk 20 
• civet 5 
• vanilla 10 

Honeysuckle #5: 

• extraits jasmin 550 
• tuberose 250 
• violet 50 
• rose femelle oil 40 
• tonquin tincture 25 
• heliotropin 15 
• neroli oil 8 
• narcissus liquid absolute 6 
• tincture myrrh 5 
• tincture ambergris 5 
• otto of rose 5 
• sweet orange oil 3 
• isobutyl ben zoate 2.5
•  isoeugenol 1 
• aubepine 1 
• ylang oil 1 
• bergamot oil 1 
• sandalwood oil 1 
• essential oil almond 0.5 
• styrax infusion 30 

Honeysuckle #6:

• Extraits violet 240 
• tuberose 240 
• orange 240 
• rose 228.75 
• infusions vanilla 1.25 
• styrax 15 
• musk 12.5 
• neroli oil 2.5 
• chevrefeuille 20

How to Make Peau d'Espagne

 Spanish Skin, otherwise called perfumed skin:

This very strongly scented leather is worn like a sachet or placed in wardrobes, baskets, and similar containers to perfume linens, clothing, and other toilette items. Take a lambskin tanned in soft, slightly thick white mégie leather. Purify it in rosewater and orange-flower water in which a few egg yolks have been mixed. Knead the skin well in this mixture and let it soak for five to six hours. Then remove it, press it thoroughly, and spread it out until the next day, taking care to stretch it from time to time so it does not dry out too much.

Next, soak it again in rosewater and orange-flower water to which you have added a few drops of ambergris essence and musk. Work the skin well in this scented water and let it soak for several hours. Remove it once more and press it thoroughly.

Prepare a light mucilage using gum tragacanth mixed with rosewater and orange-flower water, extract of balsam of Tolu, extract of vanilla, and a few drops of ambergris essence and musk. Warm a small mortar and its pestle slightly. Place in the mortar about 15.3 grams of ambergris and about 15.3 grams of musk. Grind these thoroughly with a little of the mucilage until no visible particles of musk or ambergris remain. Continue adding the mucilage little by little until you have enough to soak the entire skin. Leave the skin in this preparation for five to six days, kneading it daily with a spatula and keeping it well covered.

At the end of this time, remove the skin from the mucilage, press it well, and stretch it out, handling and loosening it occasionally so it remains soft. When dry, take half an ounce of ambergris essence, half an ounce of musk essence, and the same amount of vanilla essence. Mix them with a little of your mucilage. When blended, lay out the skin and brush this mixture over it with a small brush or puff. When the first side is nearly dry, apply the same amount to the other side. Leave the skin between two sheets of paper so it can dry gently. Once dry, keep it tightly sealed in a box with the same papers on which it dried. The older this perfumed skin becomes, the better its scent will be.

If any mucilage remains, save it for future use in fine scented waters such as ambergris, musk, Cyprus, Maréchale, etc.