Various LILY OF THE VALLEY Formulas

Top notes: neroli, sweet orange, benzyl acetate, cinnamic acetate, bromstyrol, gingergrass, geranyl formate, jonquil, cassie

Middle notes: terpineol, lily, hydroxycitronellol, ylang ylang, jasmine absolute, linalool, rose absolute, rhodinol, tuberose, geranium, geraniol, clove, ionone, orris

Base notes: civet, styrax, coumarin, cedar, ethyl phenylacetate, benzophenone, ambergris, benzoin, bois de rose oil, heliotropin, ambrette

 

MAY BELLS MAY FLOWER LILY OF THE VALLEY

• Coumarin 10 grains 
• Heliotropin 40 grains 
• Caryophyllin 20 minims 
• Oil of lignaloe 20 minims 
• Oil of sweet orange 2 minims 
• Oil of neroli 5 minims 
• Terpineol 2 drams 
• Essence of jasmine 8 ounces 
• Essence of jonquille 4 ounces 
• Essence of rose 6 ounces 
• Essence of cassie 2 ounces 
• Essence of ambrette 4 ounces 
• Glycerin 4 drams 
• Rectified spirit enough to make 25 fl ounces 

Mix 

Essence of Lily of the Valley 

• Extract of tuberose 6 ounces 
• extract o jasmin 8 ounces 
• tincture of civet 1 ounce 
• oil of lignaloe 30 minims 
• terpineol 10 minims 
• oil of sweet orange 2 minims 
• heliotropin 20 grains 
• oil of neroli 3 minims 
• glycerin 20 minims 
• tincture of chlorophyll 30 minims 
• extract of rose to produce 20 fluid ounces 

Practically no floral oil is extracted directly from the flowers, a synthetic product being almost universally used for this odor. The following typical formula well illustrates the usual combination:

• Cinnamic acetate  5 parts 
• Hydroxy citronellol 15  parts 
• Phenylethyl alcohol 10 parts 
• Linalool 10 parts 
• Benzyl acetate 15 parts 
• Ionone 10 parts 
• Rhodinol 10 parts 
• Rose absolute 5 parts 
• Jasmine absolute 5 parts 
• Terpineol, sufficient, 

To make 100 parts 

LILY OF THE VALLEY #2:

• Hydroxy citronellal 500 cc
• Geraniol from palmarosa oil 100 cc
• Ylang ylang oil manilla 100 cc
• Linalol 100 cc
• Terpineol 100 cc
• Benzyl acetate 30 cc
• Rose synthetic 20 cc
• Civet extract soluble 10 per cent 50 cc

LILY OF THE VALLEY #3:

• Hydroxy citronellal residues 100 cc
• Bromstyrol 100 cc
• Ethyl cinnamate 20 cc
• Benzyl acetate 100 cc
• Linaloe oil Mexican 150 cc
• Geranium oil Bourbon 130 cc
• Ginger grass oil 100 cc
• Clove oil 100 cc
• Cedar wood oil 100 cc
• Benzophenone 10 grams 
• Phenyl acetic acid 10 grams
• Coumarin 40 grams
• Styrax 40 grams

 

 https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_New_Standard_Formulary_Comprising_in/1Ps1AQAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=lily%20valley

Lily of the valley or muguet as natural perfume is by petroleum ether and is sold in the form of concrete and absolute. An artificial accurate facsimile is composed of hydroxycitronellal base with linalol, terpineol, nerol methyl acetophenone, and jasmin natural. 

Lily of the Valley Handkerchief Perfume

• Acacia essence 750 grammes
• Jasmin essence 750 grammes
• Orange flowers essence 800 grammes
• Rose flowers essence 800 grammes
• Vanilla flowers essence 1500 grammes
• Bitter almond oil 15 grammes

Lily of the Valley #2:

• Cumarin 1/2 dr
• Ylang Ylang Oil 1/2 dr
• Muguet 1 dr
• Musk Tincture 1 1/2 dr
• Terpineol 2 1/2 dr
• Linalool 5 dr
• Orange Flower 13 dr
• Jasmine 3 oz
• Rose 4 oz
• Lily of the Valley 7 1/2 oz

Lily of the Valley #3:

• Benzaldehyde 1/2 dr 
• Cassie 2 3/4 oz 
• Jasmine 2 3/4 oz
• Orange Flower 3 oz
• Rose 31 
• Vanillin Tincture 4 1 lb 49 

Lily of the Valley #4:

• Orris Oil, Concrete 1/2 dr
• Castor Tincture 7 3/4 dr 
• Ylang Ylang Oil 1 1/2 oz 
• Jasmine 14 oz
• Lily of the Valley #5:
• 24 oz tuberose extract
• 12 oz orris extract
• 12 oz jasmine extract
• 32 oz spirits of wine
• 1/4 oz bergamot

Extract Lily of the Valley #6:

• 8 parts Triple Extract Tuberose 
• 1 part Triple Extract Jasmine 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Orange Flower 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Cassie  
• 4 parts Triple Extract Rose  
• 1 part Essence Ylang Ylang 
• 1/4 part Essence Almonds 
• 3 parts Extract Vanilla 
• 5 parts Cologne Spirit 

Mix.

taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.

Lily of the Valley #7:

• 10 oz Essence of tuberose  
• 1 oz jasmine 
• 2 oz orange 
• 3 oz vanilla
• 4 oz cassie 
• 4 oz rose 
• 6 drops  almonds 

Lily of the Valley #8:

• 2 pints essence of heliotrope  
• 2 pints spring flowers 
• 1 pint rose 

Lily of the Valley #9:

• Extract of jasmine 28 oz 
• Extract of orange flower 7 oz 
• Extract of rose 14 oz 
• Extract of tuberose 7 oz 
• Alcohol 28 oz 
• Lily synthetic (Bush) 2 oz 

Lily of the Valley Extract #10:

• Extract of jasmine 3 1/2 oz 
• Extract of ylang ylang 1/2 oz
• Cardamon seed crushed 75 grains 
• Oil of orris 10 drops 
• Lily of the valley syn 1 dram 

Macerate for a week and filter. The amount of cardamon seed is to be weighed exactly; should its odor still be too pronounced, extract of jasmine should be gradually added until the right aroma is obtained.

Imitation Lily of the Valley

• 1/2 pint Extract of tubereuse
• 1 oz extract of jasmine
• 2 oz extract of fleur d'orange
• 3 oz extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pint extract of cassie
• 1/4 pint extract of rose
• 3 drops Otto of almonds

Keep this mixture together for a month, and then bottle it for sale. It is a perfume that is very much admired.

Essence of Lily of the Valley

Mix the following extracts: of tuberose 1/2 pint, of jasmin 2 oz., of orange-flower 2 oz., of vanilla 3 oz., of cassia 1/4 pint, of rose-water 1/4 pint: add 3 drops of hydrocyanic acid. Keep together for a month, then bottle.

Extract of Lily of the Valley

• 1 pint Extract of tuberose 
• 1 pint extract of jasmine 
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/4 pint Tincture of vanilla  
• 1/4 pint tincture of benzoin 
• 1 drachm Oil of almonds 
• 8 ounces Rose-water, triple

This is also an imitation, but, as I think, an improvement on the original.

Lily of the Valley: 

• Tincture of tuberose 6 ounces
• Tincture of jasmine 8 ounces
• Tincture of civet 1 ounce
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces
• Oil of sandalwood 2 drops
• Oil of lily of the valley (Dodge & Olcott) 10 drops

Mix and filter if necessary. 

Lily of the Valley #1 

• Acacia essence 750 parts 
• Jasmine essence 750 parts 
• Orange flower 800 parts 
• Rose 800 parts 
• Vanilla essence 1500 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 15 parts

Lily of the Valley #2

• Oil of bitter almond 10 minims 
• Tincture of vanilla 2 ounces 
• Essence of rose 2 ounces 
• Essence of orange flower 2 ounces 
• Essence of jasmine 2 1/2 ounces 
• Essence of tuberose 2 1/2 ounces 
• Spirit of rose 2 1/2 ounces 

Lily of the Valley #3

• Extract rose 200 parts 
• Extract vanilla 200 parts 
• Extract orange 800 parts 
• Extract jasmine 600 parts 
• Extract musk tincture 150 parts 
• Neroli oil 10 parts 
• Rose oil 6 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 4 parts 
• Cassia oil 5 parts 
• Bergamot oil 6 parts 
• Tonka beans essence 150 parts 
• Linaloa oil 12 parts 
• Spirit of wine 90 percent 3,000 parts  

Lily of the Valley:

• Extract of tuberose 400 parts 
• extract of rose 200 parts 
• extract of acacia 200 parts 
• extract of orange flower 100 parts 
• extract of jasmine 98 parts 
• concentrated essence of bitter almond 2 parts 

Lily of the Valley: 

• Oil of lignaloe synthetic 6 grams 
• oil of neroli 2 grams 
• oil of jasmine synthetic 1 gram 
• amyl butyrate 20 drops 
• tincture of musk 30 drops 

May Flowers Bouquet:

• 1/2 pint Extract of rose
• 1/2 pint Extract of jasmine
• 1/2 pint Extract of orange flower
• 1/2 pint Extract of cassie
• 1 pint Extract of vanilla
• 1/4 drachm Otto of almonds

May Flowers #2:

• Essence rose 10 ozs 
• Essence jasmine 10 ozs 
• Essence orange flowers 10 ozs 
• Essence cassia 10 ozs 
• Tincture vanilla 20 ozs 
• Oil bitter almond dr 
• Extract of May Flowers #3:
• Extract rose 8 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 8 ozs 
• Extract orange flowers 8 ozs 
• Extract cassia 8 ozs 
• Extract vanilla 16 ozs 
• Oil almonds 15 drops 

Mix and filter 

May Flowers #4:

• Extract rose 32 ozs 
• Extract cassia 24 ozs 
• Extract violet 8 ozs 
• Extract musk 4 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 8 ozs 
• Oil rose 20 drops 
• Oil bergamot 1/2 oz 

Extract May Flowers #5:

• Spirit rose 1 oz 
• Spirit jasmine 1 oz 
• Spirit cassia 1 oz 
• Spirit vanilla 2 ozs 
• Spirit musk 1 dr 
• Spirit cologne 11 ozs 

May Flowers Bouquet #6:

• Extract tuberose 14 ozs 
• Extract cassia 14 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 8 ozs 
• Extract orange flowers 8 ozs 
• Spirit rose geranium 8 ozs 
• Tincture ambergris 6 ozs 
• Spirits vanillin 4 ozs 
• Spirits bitter almond 2 ozs 

May Flower #7:

• Oil linalol 2 drs 
• Oil orange flowers 10 mins 
• Oil jasmine 20 mins 
• Essence raspberry 1/2 dr 
• Essence musk 1 dr 

Extract May Flower #8:

• Extract rose 1 pt 
• Extract jasmine 1 pt 
• Extract orange flower 1 pt 
• Extract cassia 1 pt 
• Tincture vanilla pt 
• Oil rose geranium 1 dr 
• Oil neroli petale dr 
• Oil bitter almonds 20 drops 
• Oil lemon 20 drops 

May Flowers #9:

• Extract vanilla 20 ozs 
• Extract rose 10 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 10 ozs 
• Extract orange 10 ozs 
• Extract cassia 10 ozs 
• Extract storax 3 ozs 
• Oil almond 10 drops 

May Flowers #10:

• Tincture orris 460 parts 
• Triple extract rose 320 parts 
• Extract jasmine 160 parts 
• Tincture ambergris 40 parts 
• Oil neroli 6 parts 
• Oil lemon 6 parts 
• Oil cedrat 6 parts 
• Oil cinnamon 2 parts 

May Flowers #11:

• Extract rose 13 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 10 ozs 
• Extract orange 10 ozs 
• Extract cassia 12 ozs 
• Extract vanilla 10 ozs 
• Extract violet 10 ozs 
• Extract storax 2 ozs 
• Extract civet 1 oz 
• Oil almonds 13 drops 
• Otto rose 17 drops 

May Flowers  (Fleurs de Mai) #12:

• Tincture musk 100 G 
• Oil rose 5 G 
• Oil cassia 3 G 
• Oil bitter almond 6 G 
• Tincture tonka (1:50) 200 G 
• Extract vanilla 200 G 
• Extract rose I 200 G 
• Extract orange  1000 G 
• Extract jasmine 1600 G 
• Oil neroli artificial 10 gouttes
• Terpineol 5 gouttes
• Oil linaloe 10 gouttes
• Cologne spirit 1000 G 

May Blossom #1:

• Extract Essence jasmine 4 ozs 
• Essence rose 2 1/2  ozs 
• Essence reseda 2 1/2 ozs 
• Essence orange flowers 1 1/2 ozs 
• Spirit orris 1 1/2 ozs 
• Spirit ylang ylang 6 drs 
• Tincture musk 2 drs 
• Tincture ambergris 2 drs 
• Oil bergamot 2 drs 
• Heliotropin 30 grns 
• Alcohol 2 1/2 ozs 

May Blossom #2:

• Essence orris 500 parts 
• Triple extract rose 250 parts 
• Extract jasmine 100 parts 
• Essence ylang ylang 100 parts 
• Essence ambergris 25 parts 
• Oil orange 10 parts 
• Oil citron 20 parts 
• Oil neroli 5 parts 

May Blossom #3:

• Extract jasmine 25 ozs 
• Tincture musk 5 ozs 
• Extract rose geranium 5 ozs 
• Oil bergamot 1/2 oz 
• Oil linaloe 1 1/2 ozs 
• Alcohol 4 ozs 

May Blossoms #4:

• Extract rose 12 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 12 ozs 
• Extract cassia 12 ozs 
• Spirits ylang ylang 12 ozs 
• Spirits vanillin 12 ozs 
• Spirits heliotropin 4 ozs 

May Blossom #5:

• Tincture of jasmine 25 ounces 
• Tincture of musk 5 ounces 
• Tincture of rose geranium 5 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 1/2 ounce 
• Oil of lignum aloe 1 1/2 ounces 
• Cologne spirits (188%) 4 ounces 

Dissolve the oils in the cologne spirits add the tinctures and filter if necessary.

Flor de Mayo:

• Extract jasmine 3 ozs 
• Extract jasmine, second wash 2 ozs 
• Extract orange flowers 2 ozs 
• Extract orange flowers, second wash 2 ozs 
• Extract tuberose, second wash 2 ozs 
• Extract tuberose, virgin 3 ozs 
• Extract musk, comp 2 ozs 
• Oil bergamot 10 drops 
• Oil neroli 2 drops 
• Extract musk 1 dr 
• Extract ambergris 1 dr 
• Extract civet 1 dr 
• Extract styrax 15 drops 
• Extract tolu 1 dr 

Extrait des Fleurs de Mai (May Flowers):

• 1 pint Extract of cassie
• 1 pint extract of tuberose
• 1/2 pint extract of jasmine
• 1/2 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/4 pint Tincture of ambrette 
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla 
• 2 drams Oil of geranium 
• 1 dram Oil of neroli 
• 1/2 dram oil of almonds  
• 8 oz Rose-water, triple 

May Flowers 

• Essence of rose 10 ounces 
• Essence of jasmine 10 ounces 
• Essence of orange flowers 10 ounces
• Essence of cassie 10 ounces
• Tincture of vanilla 20 ounces 
• Oil of bitter almond drachm   

May Blossom 

• Essence of orris 500 parts 
• triple extract of rose 250 parts 
• extract of jasmine 100 parts 
• essence of ylang ylang 100 parts 
• essence of ambergris 25 parts 
• oil of orange 10 parts 
• oil of citron 20 parts 
• oil of neroli 5 parts 

The formula below was taken from Mierzinski.

May Bells #1 

• Oil bergamot parts 1.0 
• Oil rose geranium parts 1.5 
• Tincture musk parts 2 5 
• Oil linaloe parts 5.0 
• Extract jasmine parts 250.0 
• Alcohol, 80 proof,  parts 760.0 

It is understood of course that none but the best materials are to be used.

May Bells #2

• Extract orange parts 2000 
• Extract violet parts 1000
• Extract cassia parts 1000
• Tincture orris parts 50
• Tincture musk parts 20
• Oil clove parts 30
• Oil linaloe parts 60
• Oil coriander parts 20
• Oil cananga parts 10
• Oil wintergreen parts 10
• Oil mace parts parts 10
• Oil ylang ylang parts 5
• Alcohol absolute 180

In all of the above the essential oils are dissolved in the absolute alcohol and the solution added to the mixture of extracts. Taken from Western Druggist, Volume 17, 1895.

May Bells 

• Jasmine extrait 
• Orange extrait 
• Linaloe extrait 
• Spirit of ylang ylang 
• Oil of mace 
• Tincture of orris

Various Lily of the Valley Formulas

Lily of the valley or muguet as natural perfume is by petroleum ether and is sold in the form of concrete and absolute. An artificial accurate facsimile is composed of hydroxycitronellal base with linalol, terpineol, nerol methyl acetophenone, and jasmin natural. 

Lily of the Valley Handkerchief Perfume

• Acacia essence 750 grammes
• Jasmin essence 750 grammes
• Orange flowers essence 800 grammes
• Rose flowers essence 800 grammes
• Vanilla flowers essence 1500 grammes
• Bitter almond oil 15 grammes

Lily of the Valley #2:

• Cumarin 1/2 dr
• Ylang Ylang Oil 1/2 dr
• Muguet 1 dr
• Musk Tincture 1 1/2 dr
• Terpineol 2 1/2 dr
• Linalool 5 dr
• Orange Flower 13 dr
• Jasmine 3 oz
• Rose 4 oz
• Lily of the Valley 7 1/2 oz

Lily of the Valley #3:

• Benzaldehyde 1/2 dr 
• Cassie 2 3/4 oz 
• Jasmine 2 3/4 oz
• Orange Flower 3 oz
• Rose 31 
• Vanillin Tincture 4 1 lb 49 

Lily of the Valley #4:

• Orris Oil, Concrete 1/2 dr
• Castor Tincture 7 3/4 dr 
• Ylang Ylang Oil 1 1/2 oz 
• Jasmine 14 oz

Lily of the Valley #5:

• 24 oz tuberose extract
• 12 oz orris extract
• 12 oz jasmine extract
• 32 oz spirits of wine
• 1/4 oz bergamot

Extract Lily of the Valley #6:

• 8 parts Triple Extract Tuberose 
• 1 part Triple Extract Jasmine 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Orange Flower 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Cassie  
• 4 parts Triple Extract Rose  
• 1 part Essence Ylang Ylang 
• 1/4 part Essence Almonds 
• 3 parts Extract Vanilla 
• 5 parts Cologne Spirit 

Mix.

taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.

Lily of the Valley #7:

• 10 oz Essence of tuberose  
• 1 oz jasmine 
• 2 oz orange 
• 3 oz vanilla
• 4 oz cassie 
• 4 oz rose 
• 6 drops  almonds 

Lily of the Valley #8:

• 2 pints essence of heliotrope  
• 2 pints spring flowers 
• 1 pint rose 

Lily of the Valley #9:

• Extract of jasmine 28 oz 
• Extract of orange flower 7 oz 
• Extract of rose 14 oz 
• Extract of tuberose 7 oz 
• Alcohol 28 oz 
• Lily synthetic (Bush) 2 oz 

Lily of the Valley Extract #10:

• Extract of jasmine 3 1/2 oz 
• Extract of ylang ylang 1/2 oz
• Cardamon seed crushed 75 grains 
• Oil of orris 10 drops 
• Lily of the valley syn 1 dram 

Macerate for a week and filter. The amount of cardamon seed is to be weighed exactly; should its odor still be too pronounced, extract of jasmine should be gradually added until the right aroma is obtained.

Imitation Lily of the Valley

• 1/2 pint Extract of tubereuse
• 1 oz extract of jasmine
• 2 oz extract of fleur d'orange
• 3 oz extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pint extract of cassie
• 1/4 pint extract of rose
• 3 drops Otto of almonds

Keep this mixture together for a month, and then bottle it for sale. It is a perfume that is very much admired.

Essence of Lily of the Valley

Mix the following extracts: of tuberose 1/2 pint, of jasmin 2 oz., of orange-flower 2 oz., of vanilla 3 oz., of cassia 1/4 pint, of rose-water 1/4 pint: add 3 drops of hydrocyanic acid. Keep together for a month, then bottle.

Extract of Lily of the Valley

• 1 pint Extract of tuberose 
• 1 pint extract of jasmine 
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/4 pint Tincture of vanilla  
• 1/4 pint tincture of benzoin 
• 1 drachm Oil of almonds 
• 8 ounces Rose-water, triple

This is also an imitation, but, as I think, an improvement on the original.

Lily of the Valley: 

• Tincture of tuberose 6 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmine 8 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 1 ounce 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Oil of sandalwood 2 drops 
• Oil of lily of the valley (Dodge & Olcott) 10 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary. 

Lily of the Valley #1 

• Acacia essence 750 parts 
• Jasmine essence 750 parts 
• Orange flower 800 parts 
• Rose 800 parts 
• Vanilla essence 1500 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 15 parts

Lily of the Valley #2

• Oil of bitter almond 10 minims 
• Tincture of vanilla 2 ounces 
• Essence of rose 2 ounces 
• Essence of orange flower 2 ounces 
• Essence of jasmine 2 1/2 ounces 
• Essence of tuberose 2 1/2 ounces 
• Spirit of rose 2 1/2 ounces 

Lily of the Valley #3

• Extract rose 200 parts 
• Extract vanilla 200 parts 
• Extract orange 800 parts 
• Extract jasmine 600 parts 
• Extract musk tincture 150 parts 
• Neroli oil 10 parts 
• Rose oil 6 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 4 parts 
• Cassia oil 5 parts 
• Bergamot oil 6 parts 
• Tonka beans essence 150 parts 
• Linaloa oil 12 parts 
• Spirit of wine 90 percent 3,000 parts 

Muguet de Mai:

• Natural Lily of the Valley Essence (Grasse) – 10 g
• Natural Jasmine Essence – 10 g
• Natural Rose de Mai Essence – 10 g
• Natural Cassie Essence – 5 g
• Natural Ylang-Ylang Essence – 5 g
• Artificial Lily of the Valley Flowers – 55 g
• Cyclosia – 5 g